Commercial tubes that do not release plasticizer? | Page 2

Have you considered not using a heater at all? Normally it wouldn’t make sense to just heat up a tank of water and then let it cool during off-peak hours. In the context of building a cooling infrastructure that includes over 70 feet of tubing, however, this might be the case.

With a continuous load of 1200W, it takes 30min to heat 5gal of water from 23.9C (75f) to 50C. With a 60 gal aquarium and a single 3090 gaming load (assuming 600W of GPU+CPU heat), you’re looking at 11-12 hours of non-stop gaming to heat that aquarium to 50C. let cool on its own overnight.

If you want to stick with your remote rad setup, just run a water to water heat exchanger next to the PC. Run your favorite coolant on the PC side of the loop, then run whatever you want (even biocidal tap water) on the remote side. This way you won’t have to worry about special tubes or coolant.

I haven’t completely decided on the radiator side yet. I had thought of a few different options.

  • (Cheapest) A few large sets of MORA-style radiators with full-throttle fans out of earshot.
  • (Riskiest) Homemade PVC tube cooling tower vented to the outside through a dryer vent (like the old school “bong” coolers of 20 years ago)
  • (Most Expensive) Water Cooler(s)

The last option really appeals to me because of the performance. It would be nice to keep the loop temperature at room temperature (or maybe even between dew point and room temperature somewhere, if I can control it enough to avoid condensation)

The challenge here is that compressors get damaged if they have to be turned on and off all the time, that’s why most of them have a timer of around 3 minutes that won’t allow them to turn back on until 3 minutes have elapsed after the last turn. stopped.

So, I would need enough coolant in the loop that at my system’s maximum heat output, the temperature of the loop does not change more than the desired temperature level in 3 minutes. I would probably set this temperature change to ~1°C

I have a 1200W PSU, but I rarely if ever max it out, and even if I do, all that load doesn’t go into the water loop. I think a likely maximum thermal load in the loop between CPU and GPU is probably around 850w.

Assuming my Cp of coolant is the same as water, I would need about 7 gallons to keep the temperature rise to 1°C in 3 minutes.

My initial plan is to use a 6 gallon glass carboy as a reservoir. I would either build a custom enclosure/stand and insulate it, or use an insulator wrap and carboy stand for home brewing. One idea might have been to place it in a medium sized trash can barrel and fill it with expanding foam insulation around it.

The last gallon should come from the fluid in the tubing and loops, but with the length of tubing I’m considering, I don’t think that would be a problem. If my line length is 120 feet total (60 feet each way) and I choose 0.5″ ID tubing, that’s 1.22 gallons. The cooling blocks in the cooler(s) ( s) will probably also add bulk.

Two loops (sharing the same tank) would enter and leave this carboy. One to my desk and therefore to the GPU and CPU blocks of the PC and back, and one to the cooler(s) and back.

I would have to drill a few holes using diamond hole saws in the bottom of the carboy and insert barbed fittings which would then go to the pumps which go to the PC and chiller(s) respectively.

I’m thinking of reusing my two EK D5 top and pwm pumps for the long line to the PC, and only using one D5 for the cooler(s)

I’m including a plural s on chillers because I’m not quite decided on that yet.

My favorite potential plan so far is a small cooler like 1/10 hp or 1/6 hp to handle idle and near-idle use, then a big 1/2 to 1 hp cooler that only kicks in ‘when needed (long encodings or game runs etc)

I’m hoping that if I use an Aquaero controller to control the flow on each of the two loops, I can keep the flow very slow at idle, which means the little cooler brings the coolant back up to target temperature, and the the large chiller does not fire unless the small one cannot keep up, in which case the flow increases, the small chiller is unable to heat the target temperature before reaching the large chiller and it fires.

This is going to be a little uncertain though, as it depends on fairly accurate temperature measurements, and I don’t know how accurate the temperature probes in coolers are and how much they drift over time. I’m definitely not going to take them to a NIST certified calibration house to have them calibrated every few months :p

If that doesn’t work, I’m going to have to default the large cooler a degree or two higher than the small cooler. That would be suboptimal, because that way I don’t get the coldest temperatures when I need them most, but honestly, at a slightly subambient level, I don’t really think it will do a difference. I’ll be cool enough for a good overclock/boost clock with a comfortable headroom, and I’m not going down to extreme LN2 overclock temperatures anyway.

Even in the humid summer, with the dehumidifiers and air conditioning running, my office is typically below ~74°F and 45% RH.

This gives me a dew point of around 10.7°C. I would need a decent headroom as I don’t want to risk condensation, but if I can get to 15°C that would still be pretty awesome.

Either way, these are long-term plans. I’m just in the plot phase right now. It may happen, it may not happen, but if it does, we are talking about the “future” and not the immediate.

Melvin B. Baillie